The trout hatchery was built up the mountain in the 1930s by the Department of the Interior as a research facility. The 100 or so residents of this quiet Craig County town have lived in these mountains for as far back as they can remember. When Ty Walker first heard about an old trout hatchery for sale in New Castle, his first question was, “Where’s New Castle?” You’ll find it about 30 miles northwest of Roanoke. “There’s a personal touch too because Ty harvests these healthy fish by hand.” Clearly, this is a different kind of farmed trout. “Because they feed on bugs and other natural food, the fish are happy, and you can taste it,” Marshall explains. When I mention this to Ty, the surprise of it sets him blushing.Īt Richmond seafood shop, Yellow Umbrella, my fishmonger Travis Marshall was practically giddy as he showed me their beautiful, shimmering fish, describing the Walkers’ old-timey operation with awe. Singing the praises of Smoke in Chimneys on Instagram, I see Donnie Glass-of Richmond’s Grisette and Jardin-and Top Chef alum Brittanny Anderson-of Brenner Pass and Metzger Bar & Butchery-both in the span of a week. It’s rare to see a chef rhapsodize over farm-raised trout, but the Walkers’ have that effect.
There, the young couple, with the help of Shannon’s brother, Matthew, is on a mission to cultivate trout-Virginia’s state fish-worthy of culinary admiration. Within millions of miles of limestone, the water courses, finding an outlet through the cold-water springs that dot the land.Ĭraig County transplants Ty and Shannon Walker own one such spring, and it feeds the couple’s small trout hatchery, Smoke in Chimneys, which lies just ten feet below, alongside the Walkers’ home. In the hills and hollers of the Alleghenies, water flows underground as it has for centuries.
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